Jane’s Bike Tour Across the US

We’ve now had our second day of rain.  In 55 days of riding, we can hardly complain.  Actually, it gives a bit of a change to our everyday good weather.  We had two heavy periods of rain, one about 5 miles long and the other 22 miles, or until the end.  The last half mile it was a true deluge - rinsed off the bike a bit at least.  I ended up riding 59 miles today rather than the 54 scheduled because I started our early and then went back to find Clark.  We’ve been riding together the last few days and seem to ride about the same speed - unless we have hills and then I fall behind.

We’re staying in the Hampton Inn in Perry, Florida, tonight and they have been exceptionally kind and helpful. As we all came in dripping wet they gave us a towel to dry ourselves and then provided a hose to rinse off our bikes.  On top of that they are serving complimentary cookies, strawberries dipped in chocolate, wine and beer from 5:30 to 8 this evening.  They don’t know what they’re getting into with this group.

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Yes, this is our last rest day - on a Sunday.  I’m going to church for the first time on this trip.  I’ve often looked, hoping to find a service just at the time I’m passing a church, but it’s never happened.  Today three of us are biking  just down the road to a Presbyterian Church for 10:30 service.

Yesterday we had a short (48 mile)  trip scheduled, but Clark and I and several others decided to extend it and go see Wakulla Springs.  We were all hoping to be able to kayak, but individual boats were not allowed.  They did have a boat tour which we dicided to take since we were there.  It was well worth it!  We saw about 10 or 12 alligators, great herons, bald eagle nest, turtles and many others birds and of course fish.  The narrator on the trip was informative and interesting. 

The ride yesterday was very nice.  We had good shoulders, hills only at the beginning and not too much traffic, except when going into Crawfordville.  Actually, it got so flat I was almost wishing for a bit of a hill.  We did get some head winds just before the end - I think I prefer hills.

Four more days of riding, 254 miles.  The end is getting too near.  Thanks for everyone’s interest, comments, prayers and support.  I will try to post more pictures, but this may be my last blog until I get home.  I will try to do a summary with my feelings on re-entry into the world.  Also, I may put more pictures on at home for I’ve certainly missed a lot of really good ones due to lack of computer time.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

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I didn’t and there are!  We’ve had hills since we arrived or maybe I’ve just gotten soft with all the flat lands of Louisiana and Mississippi and even Alabama.  I’m assured it will get less hilly as we go east.  The roads are generally better in Florida, but we had the worst one of all in Pensacola.  It was route 90, on the east side of town the last five miles before our motel.  It was a narrow, very busy highway with a shoulder that was all torn up.  I think drivers thought we should ride on it anyway, for they couldn’t see how bad it was.  One of our riders was clipped by a motorcyclist who tried to pass her on her right side while she was riding on the very bumpy shoulder. Everyone that saw it thinks he had either been drinking or was on drugs.  She had a stiff neck for a couple days, but is now back riding each day.  She was blessed for it certainly could have been much worse.

The same day I had a series of flats, well, really only 1 flat and a patch that I’d put on backwards!  My spare tube that day was new but defective and had a hole in it.  Therefore, I patched the one that went flat.  Three of us were there, but apparently none of us knew how to patch tires, for we all thought it was fine. Wrong!  It held for about 7 miles and I had to try again.  Fortunately, Candace came along and instructed me in how to patch a tire.  I’m still riding on it.

The last 3 days have been mostly on country roads in farm areas and through hardwood and pine treed areas.  Many times it didn’t even seem like we were in Florida, certainly not the Florida I’m used to seeing.  In towns there are occasional palm trees, but seldom in the country.  Yesterday was a 90 mile day and today I was quite tired - good thing it was only 52 miles.  The roads were peaceful, many with shade though it still got hot by afternoon.  Tomorrow is only 48 miles and then we have a day off near  Wakulla Springs - it should be nice.  After that we’re on our final leg, only 4 days of riding.  I have mixed feeling about being finished.  I want to go home and see everyone, but will sorely miss the constant companionship of what has become my ‘family’ here.

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After taking 20 days to get through Texas, it seems like we’re flying through the southeastern states.  We were in Mississippi for only 2 nights and will be in Alabama for the same.  We’re having Marguaritas every other night.

Our ride into Alabama yesterday was short, 42 miles, flat to slightly rolling and peaceful.  The bridge over to Dauphin Island wasa bit exciting.  It looks a bit daunting when seen from a distance, but up close, it looks like you’re riding into the sky.  The island is recovering from Katrina, but apparently is not as commercial as before the hurricane.  Many of us are planning to see the Audubon Bird Sanctuary today, our day off.  There is also a Estuarium Sea Lab that sounds interesting.  The island is so small, our bicycles make a perfect mode of transportation. 

We are staying in beautiful condominiums right on the Gulf of Mexico.  There are two  swimming pools just outside our patio doors and the Gulf is just over the dune.  What luxury!!  There are 6 of us in our condo - Debbbie and Clark in one of the twin rooms, Sandra and Barbara M each in singles and Katie and I in another twin room.  It’s a good group.

Tomorrow we head to Florida - our last state.  The trip is going too fast.

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It’s hard to believe that I haven’t written for 8 days!  A lot has happened.   My new tire arrived promptly in DeRidder on Saturday.  However, Michelle couldn’t change the cassette for she didn’t have the proper tool - I ordered it and it was scheduled to arrive the next Tuesday.  That left me wondering how long my tire rim would last.  When it gave out, I would be sagging until the tool arrived.  Lots of things happened at that point.  On Sunday, the van wouldn’t start, the starter was bad.  The van carries our luggage and our kitchen and we all feared we’d be sleeping and riding the next day without our luggage.  God was with us!  First, Arda’s husband, who was in the area, was willing to pull the trailer to our next motel in Opelousas, LA - we may not get food, but would have our luggage!!!  Next, a mechanic was found (he was in church when his cell phone rang) who was willing to change the starter on Sunday!  That’s a miracle in itself!  We didn’t get our usual cooking that night, but we were taken to a local Mexican Restaurant!  Also, Arda’s husband, Dave, took three tires to the bike shop for repair on Monday.  Chip seal had caused several spokes to break and another rim had broken.  My rim had finally broken at the end - 1/4 mile before the hotel - after another 90+ mile day on Louisiana’s roads.  It seems some of them are even worse that the chip seal in Texas!  I did end up riding in the sag on Monday, but was able to ride on Tuesday!  It’s wonderful not to have to worry if my wheel will give out!

Tuesday was our day to cross the Mississippi.  Unfortunately, the ferry to St. Francisville  was closed due to high water.  We only rode 35 miles and then were sagged to St Francisville.  Half of the group left straight from our motel and arrived in St. Francisville around noon.  Some rode into town seeing the historic sights, some took the day off from riding completely.  We stayed at a beautiful Bed and Breakfast with wonderful cottages and full kitchens - well, almost.  Wednesday was our day off and what a beautiful place to rest!  We got a tour of the mansion house at the Butler-Greenwood B&B in the morning.  This plantation has been in the same family since it was built in the 1790’s and many of the furnishings are the originals.  The owner, Anne Butler, has written several cookbooks, two I purchased.  We also visited a very interesting shop, Grandma’s Button’s, in town, but I resisted buying anything.

Our ride from St. Francisville to Bogalusa was to be 107 miles originally, but was extended to an option of 127.  I was able to ride 102, our pick up point, but wasn’t willing to try 127.  The ride was very hilly, though nothing like the hill country of Texas  A very interesting part of the day was a bridge that was out - there were only lengthwise beams over the last 20 feet.  Arda was very kind and carried many bikes over the open part, including mine.  My balance just isn’t good enough to go over, carry my bike and hold on, too.  Arda was my angel.  I do have pictures and hope to get them published tonight.

It’s time for dinner - can’t miss that - so will continue later.

Dinner was delicious, as usual.  We had lasagna, home made bread and cesear salad with birthday cake for desert.  Carol’s birthday was yesterday, but with all that happened (still to come), the dinner was postponed until today.

Yesterday was a trying day for many.  We biked from Bogalusa to Wiggins, Missippi.  We had a choice of 52 or 62 mile ride - the 52 mile ride had 26 miles on a very busy 2 lane highway with only intermittent shoulders.  Clark and I chose the long ride on country roads - some very bumpy, but with little traffic.  The area was beautiful!  When there is no need to watch your front tire all the time, it is amazing how pretty things are.  Between the 20 mile sag stop and the cut off for the long ride we found some persistent, barking, chasing dogs.  They were dancing around several of us early, but later bit two of our riders, Sandra and Genie.  Neither of these ladies are fearful of dogs, so I find it surprising.  They had to be taken to the emergency room, but neither had to have stitches.  We have since learned that the dog has had his rabis vaccination so they don’t have to worry about that.  Later, on the long section of the ride, Ellen, Pat, Clark and I came upon Phyllis who had gone over the handlebars of her bike after hitting a very large bolt in the road.  She was up and had fixed her own flat at this point, but had a lot of road rash and her bike was banged up.  The group had not had any major accidents since the first week, so this caused quite a commotion for our leaders.  Keep up those prayers - we’re almost home, but not quite.

 Last night there were some severe storms and rain, but this morning the skies were clear, sun was bright and it was cool and beautiful!  We had a 68 mile ride over mostly reasonable roads - little traffic until just at the end- and few hills.  We are in the coastal area of Mississippi so we won’t see many more hills - fine with me.  Hannah, Judy, Penny, Clark, Phyllis and I rode together for about 40 miles.  They ride fast and seldom stop.  After 40 miles, I decided to ride at a more leisurely pace, take some pictures and just relax.  The only problem was I ended up with a flat tire on the busiest section of the ride - just before Pascagoula - on the causeway, alone.  Just after I finished changing it, four riders came and then a very kind driver parked in front of me and asked if I needed help. It’s nice to know others are around and willing to help even though it was after it was fixed.

Tomorrow we go to Dauphin Island and another day off.  Perhaps you’ll learn about that in less than a week.

We only have 10 more days of riding, plus 2 days of rest.  It’s hard to believe we’re almost at the end of our journey!  In some ways, we’re all ready for it to end and in others it’s a an end to a wonderful trip.  Re-entry into regular society will be a challenge!

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It’s hard to believe that this is our last night in Texas!  After 20 days here we’ll finally be leaving.  It really hasn’t been nearly as bad as I expected.  The differences in the state, west, middle and east are so pronounced that it did not have any feeling of sameness.  Surprisingly, I like Texas - never thought I would.  However, I don’t like chip seal!!!

Yesterday was our first day of all day rain, 73 miles of it.  It started early with just a few sprinkles and ended with multiple heavy downpours.  I’ve ridden in rain before and din’t like it.  Somehow, knowing that we had to ride even in rain made it OK for me.  However, I didn’t do much more than just ride - only one picture, little looking at scenery.  As one girl put it, we all got a good look at our front tires.

Today was a much nicer day.  It was gray and cloudy in the AM, but no rain and only 56 miles.  There wasn’t very much interesting scenery - lots of dense trees, but the nice weather and lack of hills made it OK.  I did miss the fields of wild flowers, but did take some pictures of flowers along the road.  Our main problem today was lots and lots of logging trucks and very little to no shoulders on the roads.  That makes for some scarey moments, but everyone got through fine.  We’re still all having a great time - lots of laughs, expecially at dinner. 

Tomorrow is a 92 mile ride and when we get to DeRidder, LA, I should have a package waiting for me.  When riding into Navasota on the 8th, I had hit a large pot hole going onto one of the bridges.  I found out later, when my back brakes were going thump, thump, thump, that my back rim had cracked.  I’m still riding on it and am praying that it will make 92 more miles.  I called Bike Friday on the 9th and had them build a new wheel for me and overnight it to DeRidder.  Our leader, Michelle, will put my cassett on the wheel tomorrow night and I’ll be all set for the rest of the trip.    My only fear is that the package may not get there in time.  Please say a prayer for a safe trip tomorrow on my cracked rim and a timely arrvival for the new wheel.

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This is four days in one blog - a much easier system than day by day.  It also allows a few overviews that I don’t seem to get writing day by day.  Of course, I think of all these great things to say while riding down the road on a beautiful day, and forget them in the room while trying to write.  We have gone from cold mornings and warm afternoons to slightly cool mornings and hot afternoons; from being surrounded by mountains, then hills and now undiscernable hills (you don’t see them until you’re going up them).  The hills are now rolling and we can frequently coast up about half way before starting to pedal.  It is a lovely way to ride.  As a group, we’re very spread out by noon.  The fast riders are frequently already `home’, others are still taing pictures between the first two sag stops.  We’ve all developed our own way of riding.  Some folks always ride with others, some of us like to ride alone one day and with someone another day, or parts of each.  If you’re alone and want company, either slow down or speed up and you’re sure to find someone familiar. 

This is a great group, very helpful and friendly.   I had a flat while riding alone yesterday and had three or four offers of help before I even got the tire off of the bike.  However, my biggest help came from an unexpected source, Sanda’s son, Mark.  He came that morning from Kenya (he had been in Seattle for business, but lives in Kenya) to surprise his mother with a visit and followed along with the ride.  He was very helpfull with my flat and got appropriately dirty.  He also brought lots of fudge, endearing himself to the whole group.  We also had two other visitors to the group, Chuck, Genie’s husband, who brought lots of wine and snacks for the group and is greatly appreciated and Jeanne’s husband from Michigan, came for their 25th wedding anniversary. He wisked her away for the evening.  You may wonder why all the visitors - today is our day of rest.

I must include a bit about our rides.  We’ve only had 4 days of riding since our last day off, so this one seems special.  We rode 64 miles to Blanco on a georgeous day!  We stopped at a very cute bakery and a ‘trade’show (like a craft show) in Comfort and then at a winery, Sister’s Creek, in Twin Sisters.  I got a little slow on the hills late in the day, but had no trouble completing the ride. Our ride the next day to Balstrop was a 94 mile trip with lots of hills at the beginning and the end, but quite flat in the middle.  I chose to ride alone, for if I push too hard in the beginning keeping up with others, I get too tired to complete the ride.  It was very pleasant and I still had company for lunch at the Dairy Queen in Lockhart.  I did get briefly lost in Lockhart trying to find the DQ, but only added a couple miles.  The wild flowers are really coming into bloom!  We saw Primrose, lots of Blue Bonnets, Indian paintbrush and several others I don’t know the names of.  I’ve taken pictures, but they don’t do it justice.  Our ride to LaGrange the next day was very short and sweet - only 43 miles, but with some very steep hills.  We rode through Balstrop State Park with three hills of 15 to 17% grades.  They were short, but still very tough.  The ride through the park was one of our prettiest - we were surrounded by trees and wouldn’t have known there was civilization anywhere nearby if we hadn’t just come from a city.  Katie and I rode together and we got in by about 12:30.  We did try to find a recommended lunch stop in town, but it was closed.  Our last day of this series was a 71 mile ride to Navasota.  It was again a beautiful day though a bit hot by afternoon.  There was a stop in Round Top for a bakery, but I missed it - good for my waistline.  Round Top had lots and lots of antique sales spread over several miles, fortunately not open while we were there.  We found a cute lunch stop in Gay Hill with a wonderful dog to beg for our lunch.  He was very well behaved and we didn’t feed him.  Along the way I took lots of wild flower pictures tring to get the perfect one.  When we got in to Navasota we found wonderful treats that various husbands and son had brought for us.  After 71 miles I still had energy to clean my bike.

Today we’re ‘off’!  I’ll try to mail some of my things home - the warm weather gear and a couple other things.  I’ll get this posted and some pictures on, too.  Then I’ll just rest.  I know the weather stations are saying scarey things about Texas, but we seem to be fine here.  Texas is a big place and our part of it is good - so far.

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 We are halfway across the country!!!  That’s what we’ve been told anyway.  My mileage calculations don’t quite add up, but my odometer has been so messed up, it’s not suprising. It’s hard to believe the trip is half over and that we’ve biked it.  I’m about 145 miles shorter than the total milage due to sagging for various reasons, but that’s OK.  I’ve certainly biked a lot- 1385 miles.

Our last two days have been in Texas hill country.  The area is beautiful!  We’ve had some very steep – up to 15 degree grades – hills but the views and down hills have made them all worth it.  I’m sure I’m stronger on the hills than at the beginning, but must admit that on the second day of those steep hills, I had to stop part way up just to rest a bit.  Also, I don’t think I’m any faster.  Some things must be accepted – I’ll never be a racer, in fact I’ll probably always be a `C’ rider.  Back to the ride -  the only drawback on the ride from Camp Wood to Vanderpool was a five mile stretch of construction.  It was so bad we were all appreciating the chip seal when we got back to it.  As I said, we had beautiful views which I will try to post sometime today.  I’ve been having trouble getting internet connection and am writing this off line. We stayed at some wonderful cabins, Foxfire, in Vanderpool.  We had 3 to 6 people per cabin with full kitchens – we didn’t use them – and separate bedrooms for all, though mine was in the living room.  At least it was private while I was sleeping.  Last night and today we are in Kerrville at the YORanch Resort Motel with lots of dead animals in the lobby.  Linda didn’t cook for us last night, Woman Tours bought us our dinner at the hotel – almost anything on the menu except the fillet mignon.  I had the `ranchers steak’ – an 8 oz, 1 inch thick cut that was wonderful!  This is our rest day so can hopefully figure out the internet problem, get laundry done and purchase any missing items.  It’s nice to rest, but also I feel a bit `unplanned’ for there is nothing specific to do, like ride a bike all day.

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Four days and I’m just getting around to write again.  These four days have been tiring if only because the road wears one down.  I think all of Texas has shake and bake on all roads that aren’t interstate or in a town.  Where one would be able to ride 12 to 15 MPH, the rough road ends up going 8 to 10 MPH.  Oh goodness, it sounds like I’m complaining.  The countryside is beautiful and the weather has gone from cold to nice, though damp, in the morning and hot in the afternoon.  One must adjust the schedule to the changes.  We were leaving fairly late so it would be warmer, now we leave early to get in before the heat.  We have two more days of riding before a rest day and I think we are all ready now.  We’re still waiting for the prevailing west winds for we seem to have lots of east winds, or maybe that’s what we notice.  We’ve seen lots of cows, sheep, horses and goats - oh yes, lots of vultures also, though we haven’t lost a biker yet.  Today we got to swim in the Nueces River after biking only 45 miles.  We’re in the tiny town (population 882) of Camp Wood.  It has some cute shops, but many are closed Monday and Tuesday to give the owners a three day weekend - not at all like the big city.We have another birthday today - Genie L. - she’ll tell us all her age, but I won’t share.  We have a celebration planned with gifts, cake, and big signs.  Makes me want to get older before October.I’ll try to post some pictures. 

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It’s amazing.  A 60 mile ride now sounds like an easy day.  At least that’s what we expected as we set off to ride to Marathon, TX. Not necessarily so.  I started the day by reducing the load on my bike and retiring my rack bag to my suitcase, putting absolute necessities into my camelback bag.  This discombobulated me a bit, but feel it will make riding easier.  Next, as I filled my tires with air, the valve stem on my rear tire ripped giving me my second flat.  At least I didn’t have to change it on the road.  I got it changed in good time, but had a terrible time reseating the tire.  All in all, I didn’t leave until almost 9 AM.  I did catch up with several riders before the first sag at 20 miles. Katie and I then rode together until after lunch in Alpine.  As we turned on to Route 90 in Alpine, we got a headwind of at least 20 MPH and the day had gotten colder.  Since we had left our coats in the sag, we chose to wait at the lunch stop for the sag to return our coats.  Sure glad we did!  The headwind continued for about 10 miles, became a crosswind and finally turned to a tail wind and we flew in to Marathon at about 22 to 24 MPH.

Marathon is a unique place. Our hotel, the Gage Hotel, was owned be the biggest cattleman in the Trans-Pecos and is now a state historical site.  A few girls stayed in the main building, but most of us were in the `courtyard’.  I do have lots of pictures and will try to get them posted tonight.  It’s a beautiful place with antique doors, wooden shutters and ceilings of beams and sticks.  Also down the block one of the girls discovered a bed and breakfast `Eve’s Garden’.  The hostess was very gracious and encouraged anyone interested to walk through.   Of course, I took lots of pictures and will try to post them.  The construction was of recycled paper which they make into bricks themselves.

Michelle and Linda, our leaders, had a little house all to themselves and it even had a kitchen.  We still ate outdoors for it was too small for all of us inside, but Linda was thrilled to cook in a real kitchen.  We found an interesting book store and a small grocery with some necessities.  All in all, a good stay.

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